Reflecting on the 47-Day Record of the Byeongja Horan on the Namhansanseong Fortress Wall Trail

In autumn, when the colorful foliage is at its peak, the Namhansanseong Fortress Wall Trail welcomes visitors, holding a page of history within it. In the autumn of 2026, let's walk along the crimson-stained fortress walls and retrace the time of the Byeongja Horan, the 47-day resistance led by King Injo against the Qing invasion in the winter of 1636. This article is a guide for those who wish to experience the beautiful autumn scenery of Namhansanseong and the history that lies within.

At a Glance

Namhansanseong is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, more than just a hiking trail, but a scene of a tragic history. Especially from mid-October to early November, a renowned period for autumn foliage spots, a simple walk along the fortress wall can be deeply moving. Its proximity to the Seoul metropolitan area makes it suitable for a day trip and significant as a place for historical education. For more information on 2026 autumn foliage in the Seoul vicinity, please check the related page.

• Historical Significance: The site of King Injo's 47-day resistance during the Byeongja Horan
• Key Attractions: Fortress Wall Trail, Sueojangdae Command Post, Namhansanseong Temporary Palace
• Peak Foliage Season: Mid-October ~ Early November
• Official Designations: Historic Site No. 57 Namhansanseong, Historic Site No. 480 Namhansanseong Temporary Palace, Treasure No. 2153 Gwangju Namhansanseong Sueojangdae

Comparison of Namhansanseong Fortress Wall Trail Courses

The Namhansanseong Fortress Wall Trail is divided into five courses, allowing you to choose one based on your fitness level and available time. A full circuit takes about 5 hours, but popular shorter courses can be completed in around 1-2 hours.

Walking in the Footsteps of the 47-Day Byeongja Horan

Memories of the Byeongja Horan are embedded throughout the fortress wall trail. Follow the recommended route and encounter these moments in history.

1. Namhansanseong Temporary Palace: This was a temporary palace used by the king as a refuge during wartime. It was where King Injo stayed and commanded the 47-day resistance during the Byeongja Horan. Among the temporary palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, it was the only one equipped with both a Jongmyo (Royal Ancestral Shrine) and a Sajik (altars for gods of earth and grain). You can visit before or after touring the fortress to imagine the tense situation of the time. It's also interesting to compare it with Hwaseong Haenggung, part of the Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, another representative temporary palace in Gyeonggi-do.

   • Operating Hours: Summer Season (Apr-Oct) 10:00~18:00 / Winter Season (Nov-Mar) 10:00~17:00 (Closed on Mondays)
   • Admission Fee: Adults 2,000 won, Youth 1,000 won

2. Sueojangdae Command Post: This is the only remaining command post out of the five that were in Namhansanseong. Situated at the highest point with a panoramic view of the entire fortress and surrounding landscape, it is said that King Injo encouraged his troops from here. In the building's second floor, a later king, Yeongjo, is said to have inscribed the words 'Mumangroyok Byeongjajichi (無忘虜辱 丙子之恥),' meaning "Never forget the humiliation and disgrace of the Byeongja Horan," but it is not currently open to the public.

3. Seomun (West Gate, also Uikmun): On January 30, 1637, this was the gate through which King Injo and the Crown Prince exited the fortress to surrender. Although it was the most vulnerable to defense due to being at the lowest point of the fortress wall, it ironically became the passage for the king's path of humiliation. Its simple appearance, unlike the other ornate gates, evokes the pain of defeat.

What to Prepare and Things to Note Before Visiting

• Comfortable shoes: Most of the fortress wall trail is well-maintained, but some sections are dirt paths or have inclines. Hiking or trekking shoes are recommended.
• Drinking water and snacks: There are no shops along the middle of the trail, so it's best to prepare them in advance.
• Cash: You may need cash for parking fees (small car 1,000 won) or the Temporary Palace admission fee.
• Use public transportation: The parking lots are very crowded on weekends during the foliage season, so strongly consider using public transportation. You can take bus number 9 or 52 from exit 2 of Sanseong Station on subway line 8 to get to the Namhansanseong rotary.
• Protect cultural heritage: Climbing on the fortress walls or damaging facilities is prohibited. Please be sure to take your trash with you.

Background Knowledge: Namhansanseong and the Byeongja Horan

Understanding the Byeongja Horan (1636-1637) will enrich your visit to Namhansanseong. In December 1636, when the Qing Dynasty invaded Joseon with an army of 120,000, King Injo fled to Namhansanseong and resisted for 47 days.

Inside the fortress, there were only about 13,000 soldiers and enough food for 50 days. Amidst the harsh cold, starvation, and constant pressure from the Qing, the court was fiercely divided between the pro-appeasement faction, which argued for surrender, and the anti-war faction, which advocated fighting to the end. Ultimately, with Ganghwa Island also falling and all external support cut off, King Injo opened the fortress gates and suffered the humiliation of performing the "three kneelings and nine kowtows" submission ceremony to the Qing Taizong emperor at Samjeondo. As such, Namhansanseong is a space engraved with a history of both resistance and defeat, of humiliation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. When is the autumn foliage at Namhansanseong most beautiful? A. For 2026, the autumn foliage is expected to peak from mid-October to early November. During this period, it can be crowded with hikers and visitors, so visiting on a weekday might be more relaxing.

Q. What is the most convenient way to get there by public transportation? A. The most common method is to take subway line 8 to Sanseong Station, exit 2, and then take bus number 9 or 52 from the bus stop to the last stop (Namhansanseong Rotary). Be careful not to get confused by 'Namhansanseong Station,' which, despite its name, is far from the fortress.

Q. Could you recommend a good fortress wall trail course for beginners? A. I recommend Course 1 (Bukmun→Seomun→Nammun). It is about 3.8km long, takes about an hour, and has a gentle slope, making it an easy walk for people of all ages. It is more than enough to experience the charm of the fortress wall trail.

Q. Can I visit the Namhansanseong Temporary Palace anytime? A. No. It is closed every Monday, and operating hours vary by season. It is open from 10 AM to 6 PM during the summer season (Apr-Oct) and until 5 PM during the winter season (Nov-Mar), so it's best to check the hours before your visit.